Interlining QC is three rooms: mechanics (will it stay bonded and stay the right size), chemistry (formaldehyde and friends), appearance (did the press destroy the face). Buyers who only file a peel number still get collars that twist, because the canvas shrank 4% in the length and the shell did not.
TrimGem’s interlining quotes name peel and dimensional change. Rebound and stiffness belong when the zone is a collar or a chest.
Peel (bond)
Covered in the fusing note: fuse on a stated window, strip at a stated speed, report N/cm or N/5 cm, warp and weft. Record:
- Immediate peel (after cooling).
- Conditioned peel (e.g. 24 h).
- Peel after wash and after dry-clean.
Too low: open-up, bubbles. Too high with a harsh melt: board, or torn shell. Some labs peel at 300 mm/min; FZ/T 01085 is 100 mm/min. Do not compare speeds. Write the method.
Dimensional change
Measure the interlining (and the fused pair) after:
- Fusing heat — dry-heat shrinkage of the canvas alone.
- Wash — FZ/T 01084 appearance and size after wash.
- Dry-clean — FZ/T 01083.
- Steam.
Report warp % and weft %. Keep them small, and keep the difference between directions in a band the pattern can live with. Product families sit in FZ/T 64000-series language; woven fusible product standards (GB/T 23327 / GB/T 28463-type documents depending on edition) set floors. Brand specs override.
A knit fusible that grows in the width on steam will ripple a facing. A nonwoven that shrinks more than a silk will orange-peel. Trial the pair, not the canvas on a cotton poplin if the garment is silk.
The rest of a lab menu
Physical: tensile, tear, peel, mass, thickness, width, bending stiffness, drape, handle (subjective or Kawabata-type if someone is paying), strike-through / strike-back of adhesive, pilling.
Colour: wash, dry-clean, crock, perspiration, water — relevant on dyed canvases and on anything that can stain a light shell.
Chemical: formaldehyde, pH, banned amines, odour, heavy metals (see chemistry note).
Fibre ID, yarn count and density on wovens — because a substituted base is a substituted product.
Appearance after fuse: strike-back, shade change, bubbles, local delamination, dye migration, holes, broken ends, bias, width, roll quality.
Articles in scope at a full lab: fusible and sew-in, woven / knit / nonwoven, haircloth, resin collar, waistband, stay tape, weft-insert, double-sided, water-soluble embroidery backing (a cousin, not a collar canvas), stretch fusibles.
Sampling
Build the plan from base + coating + garment + market. A shirt HDPE collar is wash peel + formaldehyde + stiffness. A PA double-dot jacket front is dry-clean peel + steam + face telegraph. A kids’ garment is Class I chemistry on top.
Incoming: match the mill ticket (GB/T 31903-style marks help). In-process: press window. Final: wash remaining.
Write methods, care route, and the shell. Rebound without a method is a salesman squeezing a collar. Stiffness without a number is “crisp.” Peel without wash is a first day. Put all three on the fusible if the collar has to be a collar in week eight.